Follow along as I build a high performance 914 engine
- Begin tear down
- Long-block to short-block
- Split the case
- Take apart the crank assembly
- Remove the oil pressure relief valve
- Clean up the fan shroud
- Remove secondary oil relief valve
- Replace oil galley plugs
- Clean case halves
- Machine oil pressure sending unit mount
- Measure piston ring gaps
- Dry assembly (TDC & crank end-play measurements)
- Electromotive ignition sensor mounting
- New TDC mark on fan
- Case clearance for connecting rods
- Prepare the camshaft
- Crankshaft assembly and rod clearance
- Rod bearing defects
- New heads arrive!
- Rebuild the alternator for $8
- Modify engine tin
- Setting up to measure valve geometry
- Installing rocker studs
- Measuring pushrod length and valve travel
- Evaluate valve-piston clearance
- Making custom pushrods
- Lapping cylinders to heads
- Modifying windage tray
- Final crank assembly
- Short-block assembly
- Installing pistons in cylinders
- Long-block assembly
- Installing sheet metal
- Distributor drive cover & CHT sensors
- Installing exhaust manifolds
- Modifying Bursch muffler
- Installing transmission
- Rebuilding carburetors
- Fitting velocity stacks
- Building cable throttle linkage
- Making oil pressure
- First start & initial tune
- Preparing for engine installation
- Engine installation
- CHT gauge
- Throttle linkage
- First drive
- On the dyno
Making Oil Pressure
The engine is on a rolling dolly I made when I took it out of the car - not only will this make it easy to put back into the car, but it seems to make sense to me to use that dolly to test start the engine. This way I can break-in the cam, adjust the valves, fiddle with the carbs, etc. while the engine is out of the car and I have more room to work.
To make the dolly a test stand, I decided to put some gauges and switches on it. First, by taking some scrap pieces of wood (and using my band saw), I made some shelves/holders:
With some indicator lights and switches from All Electronics, I made a control panel. I have a spare tachometer and, since I haven't put my new "multi gauge" into the dash yet, I can put that on the test stand, too.
I had cut an opening for my CHT (cylinder head temperature) gauge... but the leads from the sensors are not long enough to reach - and I've already got the extensions running up the center tunnel of the car. No worries, I just put the gauge where the wires reached. For the test running, that will be fine.
And here's everything wired up and ready to go! Well, I don't have a way to manipulate the throttle yet, and the fuel line isn't hooked up to the pump yet...
However, I can do a test I'm anxious to do - crank the engine over and build up oil pressure. Luckily, my son was on-hand to offer some assistance:
