Follow along as I build a high performance 914 engine
- Begin tear down
- Long-block to short-block
- Split the case
- Take apart the crank assembly
- Remove the oil pressure relief valve
- Clean up the fan shroud
- Remove secondary oil relief valve
- Replace oil galley plugs
- Clean case halves
- Machine oil pressure sending unit mount
- Measure piston ring gaps
- Dry assembly (TDC & crank end-play measurements)
- Electromotive ignition sensor mounting
- New TDC mark on fan
- Case clearance for connecting rods
- Prepare the camshaft
- Crankshaft assembly and rod clearance
- Rod bearing defects
- New heads arrive!
- Rebuild the alternator for $8
- Modify engine tin
- Setting up to measure valve geometry
- Installing rocker studs
- Measuring pushrod length and valve travel
- Evaluate valve-piston clearance
- Making custom pushrods
- Lapping cylinders to heads
- Modifying windage tray
- Final crank assembly
- Short-block assembly
- Installing pistons in cylinders
- Long-block assembly
- Installing sheet metal
- Distributor drive cover & CHT sensors
- Installing exhaust manifolds
- Modifying Bursch muffler
- Installing transmission
- Rebuilding carburetors
- Fitting velocity stacks
- Building cable throttle linkage
- Making oil pressure
- First start & initial tune
- Preparing for engine installation
- Engine installation
- CHT gauge
- Throttle linkage
- First drive
- On the dyno
Distributor Drive Cover & CHT Sensors
I had to increase the diameter of the oil pressure sender hole in the sheet metal (the original sending unit was just for an idiot light - this one does both the pressure and the warning light). After trimming the tin, I used some rubber edging to help close up any air gaps - and to prevent metal rubbing against metal:
Because I'm using the electronic ignition, I'm not going to use a distributor. I can't leave blue masking tape over the hole forever (see, it's even torn in the picture above) so I needed some way to seal it off. I fabricated a little part out of aluminum that duplicates the distributor mounting shaft and the o-ring grove:
It's a nice fit and gives a clean appearance to the engine!
And, I've installed a cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor on each bank. The sensor is bolted to the stock location of the original fuel-injection sensor - that's next to the #3 cylinder. I'm also putting a sensor on the other head, next to the #2 cylinder. The gauge is an avionics item from Aircraft Spruce. Also note the brass plumbing fitting - there is one of these on each head. They will be plumbed to a "catch can" and should allow venting from the valve train area. The ability to vent any engine pressure buildup should help reduce the chance of the valve covers leaking oil.
