Follow along as I build a high performance 914 engine
- Begin tear down
- Long-block to short-block
- Split the case
- Take apart the crank assembly
- Remove the oil pressure relief valve
- Clean up the fan shroud
- Remove secondary oil relief valve
- Replace oil galley plugs
- Clean case halves
- Machine oil pressure sending unit mount
- Measure piston ring gaps
- Dry assembly (TDC & crank end-play measurements)
- Electromotive ignition sensor mounting
- New TDC mark on fan
- Case clearance for connecting rods
- Prepare the camshaft
- Crankshaft assembly and rod clearance
- Rod bearing defects
- New heads arrive!
- Rebuild the alternator for $8
- Modify engine tin
- Setting up to measure valve geometry
- Installing rocker studs
- Measuring pushrod length and valve travel
- Evaluate valve-piston clearance
- Making custom pushrods
- Lapping cylinders to heads
- Modifying windage tray
- Final crank assembly
- Short-block assembly
- Installing pistons in cylinders
- Long-block assembly
- Installing sheet metal
- Distributor drive cover & CHT sensors
- Installing exhaust manifolds
- Modifying Bursch muffler
- Installing transmission
- Rebuilding carburetors
- Fitting velocity stacks
- Building cable throttle linkage
- Making oil pressure
- First start & initial tune
- Preparing for engine installation
- Engine installation
- CHT gauge
- Throttle linkage
- First drive
- On the dyno
Rebuilding the Alternator
Along with doing the engine rebuild, I decided to freshen up my alternator... When I spun the shaft, it was apparent that the original bearings were both dry and gritty. I thought, "What would be more fun then taking the alternator apart and replacing them?!?"
At the back of the alternator, there is a metal shield that directs cooling air (from the engine fan) into the alternator. This is held on by 3 nuts:
After removing the nuts, the shield can be lifted off:
The plug can be removed and the primary cable can be taken off the positive pole:
And the cover/wires can be completely removed:
The little box component (noise filtering capacitor?) can be removed, and the two screws holding the brush assembly (the prongs for that plug) should also be removed:
